Antique Brooch with an Untreated Burmese Ruby in Platinum on Gold, c. 1920

A radiant ruby is the centerpiece of this brooch. It is cut into a teardrop shape that brings out vibrant pink reflections depending on the light. It is a natural, untreated ruby from Burma, whose intense colour and transparency are the result of natural processes: no treatment was necessary; the cut alone brings out its quality. Set in a frame featuring delicate filigree work and adorned with small diamond roses, it appears as if it were nestled in lace. This type of brooch, which is visually weighted at only one end, is also known in the English-speaking world as a “wand brooch” due to its appearance. The elegant ladies of the early 20th century wore brooches of this type to pin the rich lace fabrics to their décolletage or to hold a sautoir necklace in place. See also the portrait photograph of an unknown lady at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, Inv. No. RP-F-F21692. Stylistically, the brooch’s form and decoration fall between Belle Époque and Art Déco jewellery. This is further supported by its construction in platinum set on white gold. We discovered this elegant brooch here in Berlin. It was likely made in Germany.

Estimate:£3,162.11

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