Antique Brooch with Turquoises, Pearls, and a Diamond in Gold, British, c. 1900

Jewellery featuring pearls and turquoise set in warm yellow gold is a quintessentially British fashion trend. Lavish pieces of jewellery set with cabochon-cut turquoise first appeared in the mid-19th century, when the colour blue was generally all the rage. The colour of the turquoise reminded people of the forget-me-not flower, making turquoise jewellery the perfect choice for a romantic gift. This trend continued into the 1860s and 1870s, when turquoise was set in geometric patterns—for example, on lockets that held personal mementos. Even toward the end of the century, turquoise appeared regularly in jewellery from Great Britain: it was now used, together with pearls, as embellishment on necklaces, pendants, and brooches, especially when their shapes also conveyed a romantic message. The brooch presented here is a beautiful example of this: It is crafted from high-karat gold and set with pearls and turquoise, as well as a small, sparkling diamond. Its shape is curved; the gold forms flowing lines that enclose a flower on the right and left. On the one hand, these are the leaves of a precious, rare plant that is blooming here. On the other hand, the lines also form a heart—slightly curved, yet clearly recognizable. The elegant shape of the outer lines could just as easily have been designed in Paris. However, the colours and design of the brooch are unmistakably British. We discovered the brooch in London.

Estimate:£1,010.82

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