Antique Necklace with Sapphires & Moonstones by Tiffany & Co, New York, c. 1915

This necklace made of shiny platinum, iridescent moonstones and blue sapphires has a cool, elegant look. A delicate platinum filigree chain holds a large, round pendant. It can also be worn on its own as a brooch. All pieces are signed: they come from the workshops of Tiffany & Co. in New York. The moonstones, which are set at regular intervals in the chain and in the center of the pendant, come from Ceylon. The sapphires, which alternate with the moonstones in the chain and frame the large moonstone on the pendant, most likely come from the American state of Montana. George Frederick Kunz, the chief gemologist at Tiffany & Co., had already recognized the special quality of the mostly pastel blue sapphires around 1890. From then on, Tiffany & Co. regularly produced jewellery with these luminous gemstones. Their American origin certainly played an important role: Montana sapphires were not only valued for their aesthetic qualities, but also as an expression of a new, self-confident American concept of luxury. The necklace was created around 1915. Jewellery with platinum first appeared in the company's Blue Books in 1912, but remained the exception rather than the rule until Meta Overbeck took over as head of the Art Jewelry Department in 1914. She increased the company's focus on designs in platinum; the cool combination of moonstones and sapphires in platinum was one of her particular favorites until the 1920s. See also the catalog Clare Phillips: Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837-1987, London 2006, pp. 243-247. We discovered the necklace here in Berlin. The matching vintage case was created somewhat later than the necklace.

Estimate:£21,218.76

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