Antique Pearl and Gold Demi-Parure of a Bracelet and Pendant-Brooch

If you’re going to revel in beauty, you might as well do it properly and to the fullest! In the late 19th century, a time of economic prosperity, fashion demanded complete devotion: silhouettes became increasingly opulent, lavish, and voluminous. Following the austere classicism of the Napoleonic era, naturalism had already brought back a newfound joy in vibrant colours and grand forms by the middle of the century, a trend that reached its peak in the second half. Historical forms, natural forms, geometric abstractions: everything came together and was joyfully combined into designs never before seen. This development reached its peak in the 1860s and 1870s. The set presented here—consisting of a bracelet and a pendant brooch, a so-called “demi-parure”—is the finest example of this trend. Both pieces are crafted from high-karat gold and set with natural pearls in striking black-enameled settings. The central motif is a round medallion of polished gold, which has been richly embellished with an ever-changing array of frames, cords, palmette motifs, and, not least, the pearls. In the case of the bracelet, the polished and engraved link bracelet extends to the right and left. In the case of the brooch, a decorative element with fringes is attached. Despite the richness of their forms, the pieces of jewellery remain understated in their color palette, reduced to the warm luster of the gold. In our opinion, this is the strength of the design and also the reason why the set remains wearable to this day: its monochromatic palette provides a counterpoint to the richness of the forms and prevents the design from becoming too exuberant. The quality of the craftsmanship involved in making the pieces of jewellery is remarkable. Unlike many comparable pieces created in Germany at the same time, no filled or reinforced gold structures were used here. Although the high-karat gold is finely and lightly worked, it has sufficient substance to accommodate the meticulous hand engravings. This precision craftsmanship is characteristic of high-quality French goldsmith work from the second third of the 19th century.

Estimate:£6,702

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