Antique Platinum Brooch with Diamonds and an older Sapphire, c. 1910

Pieces of jewellery don’t always have just one life. Precious gemstones and particularly cherished pieces were often passed down within a family, altered, and adapted to the tastes of a new generation. Sometimes, such a transformation is still evident in the finished piece—as is the case with this unusual brooch, which came to us from Hanover. The brooch’s basic diamond shape reflects the jewellery fashions of c. 1910. It is crafted from solid platinum, with a light, openwork design: two interlocking diamonds form a strictly symmetrical framework of small, mesh-like bars, made to sparkle by numerous diamonds. The cool, almost weightless effect of the platinum and the clean lines of the design are characteristic of the elegant diamond jewellery of the Belle Époque, just before World War I. At its center, however, sits an older gemstone element. A deep-blue sapphire is surrounded by a wreath of old-cut diamonds, set in warm, shimmering rose gold. It is likely a single stud earring dating from around 1890. Perhaps its counterpart had been lost; perhaps this single stud earring held special sentimental value. Rather than keeping it unworn in a jewelry box, its owner had it transformed into the centerpiece of a new brooch some twenty years later. The contrast between the two periods of creation is still visible today upon closer inspection: the colorful, compact centerpiece from the late 19th century meets the light, airy platinum architecture of c. 1910. Thus, this brooch is not only a precious piece of jewellery but also tells a story of loss, preservation, and the beautiful idea of giving a cherished heirloom a second life.

Estimate:£2,486.30

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