Beautiful Retro Style Ring With Opal & Diamonds in Gold, c. 1935

Since the beginning of the 1920s, designers throughout Europe had repeatedly ventured to play with clear geometries in order to overcome the floral sweetness of Art Nouveau. While the first designs were mostly filigree and white, coolly gleaming in platinum and diamonds, the fashion changed from around 1930 to yellow-gold, more expansive works. In English-speaking countries, a more precise distinction is made here between Art Deco (the ethereal, white jewellery of the first phase) and so-called Retro Jewellery, i.e. the sculptural designs of the period from around 1930. A magnificent example of this latter style is presented here. The design forms a pointed oval in the top view. An opal in cabochon cut is placed in the center. It lies in front of an inwardly curved, polished surface of gold. To the right and to the left a triangle made of platinum is attached. These triangles form the ring shoulders and each set an early brilliant cut diamond. In the side view, the ring then surprises with fine vine engravings. The ring combines simple geometries such as triangle, circle and oval into a powerful and sculptural design. Its warm colouration complements the iridescent colours of the opal, which presents mainly pinkish, but also isolated greenish and orange reflections against a milky background. The opal is probably a later addition, but is perfectly showcased here.

Estimate:£1,408.62

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