
NOV 7 | 5:00 PM

All auctions / Jewellery & Gems / Brooch - 14 kt


Beautiful handwork – vintage leaf brooch in 14-karat yellow gold, set with rubies, emeralds and blue sapphires. The fineness was confirmed on August 29, 2026 by a jeweler through material testing as 14 karat. At an inconspicuous spot on the back there is a small minting-related nick. The piece impresses with its sculptural, three-dimensional design. Three fan-shaped, overlapping leaf elements with finely textured, matte surfaces form the expressive motif. Raised, polished leaf veins and the elegantly curved stem provide appealing accents and underline the high-quality craftsmanship. According to the accompanying insurance appraisal from 1990, the brooch is set with a total of twelve nearly equal-sized, faceted gemstones: – 4 rubies – 4 emeralds – 4 blue sapphires The stones each measure approximately 2–3 × 2.5 mm and are individually set in raised prong mounts. Their outlines appear, depending on cut, setting and viewing angle, round to slightly irregular. The differently colored gemstones are evenly distributed across the three leaf elements. The total weight of the gemstone setting, estimated from the visible dimensions, is about 1.1 ct: – 4 rubies: together about 0.4 ct – 4 emeralds: together about 0.3 ct – 4 blue sapphires: together about 0.4 ct The carat weights were estimated from the dimensions of the mounted stones. The stones were not removed or weighed individually. The combination of red, green and blue gemstones is in the tutti-frutti style. This designation describes solely the colorful design and does not indicate any attribution to Cartier or another manufacturer. Since the input form only allows one main stone and a category for side stones, the four rubies were entered as main stones and the eight emeralds and sapphires together as mixed side stones. An insurance appraisal from 1990 is available for the brooch. It describes the piece as a hand-made yellow gold brooch in a leaf shape with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. The original purchase price at that time is given as about 1,500 DM. This historical purchase price does not constitute a current appraisal. Item data: Material: 14-karat yellow gold Fineness: 585/1000, currently verified by jeweler Jewelry type: Brooch Manufacturing type: Handcrafted Motif: three-part leaf with curved stem Gemstone setting: ruby, emerald and blue sapphire Number of gemstones: 12 Stone dimensions: each about 2–3 × 2.5 mm Estimated total gemstone weight: about 1.1 ct Cut: faceted Form: mixed, predominantly rounded Setting: individual prong settings Length including stem: about 5 cm Greatest width: about 3.5 cm Total height including settings and pin mechanism: about 1.5 cm Height of the actual leaf body: about 1 cm Total weight: 15.0 g including gemstones and brooch mechanism Clasp: brooch pin with safety clasp Manufacturer: unknown Origin: not clearly determined Dating: no later than 1990, exact manufacturing year unknown Gemmological certificate: not available Historical insurance appraisal: available, from 1990 The design recalls comparable European, in particular Italian-influenced leaf brooches from the middle to second half of the 20th century. A secure provenance or attribution to a specific manufacturer is not possible based on the available marking. Condition: Good age-appropriate condition with light signs of wear and surface traces. Fine scratches are visible on the polished areas and the back. At an inconspicuous spot on the back there is the small nick from the current material testing. The textured front remains well-preserved. All twelve gemstones are present. The brooch pin and safety clasp are intact. The photographs show the piece from various angles and under different lighting. The piece will be carefully packaged and insured and shipped with tracking.
Estimate:£1,835.41
To the auctionView all items fromCatawikiorJewellery & Gems
Estimate:
£1,835.41
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