Curious & rare Rolex Oyster Watch Co Abercrombie & Fitch Wrist Watch

HFA DT73851 Described By: Mike NMDD Title: Curious "Rolex" Oyster Watch Co Abercrombie & Fitch Wrist Watch Circa 1927 Incredibly Low Serial 00617 Description: LOT [X]: An Exceptionally Rare, Museum worthy Early "Oyster Watch Co." Cushion Wristwatch From the Personal Collection of Jeffrey Hess...Double-Signed Retailer Dial by Abercrombie & Fitch Co. | Cased in Rare "Snowite" Alloy.....House Certificate: Vetted, cataloged, and guaranteed by Jeffrey Hess, co-author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History.Manufacturer: Oyster Watch Co. (Hans Wilsdorf / Rolex SA)Circa: Late 1927 / Early 1928 (The First Year of Introduction to Abercrombie & Fitch)Case Serial Number: 00617 (Ultra-low, sub-1000 foundational run)Case Material: Proprietary "Snowite" tarnish-resistant white alloy Dimensions: approx 21mm diameter (excluding crown)Movement: 15 Jewels, 3 Adjustments, specialized original FHF (Fontainemelon) base ebauche, signed Oyster Watch Co.Dial: 100% original, untouched cream patina dial double-signed Abercrombie & Fitch Co. / OysterExpert Analysis & Historical SignificanceBy Jeffrey Hess & the Specialists at Hess Fine AuctionsThis timepiece represents a breathtaking, foundational milestone in the genesis of the waterproof wristwatch. Following the monumental 1926 debut of the Rolex Oyster, Hans Wilsdorf immediately set out to expand his global reach by establishing secondary corporate lines and high-tier retail partnerships. Folklore suggests one of the reasons Rolex gained popularity in the USA was that so many wealthy Manhattanites shopped at the famous Outfitters for African safaris and such. Upon seeing so many wearing them, they took flight commercially. This pristine specimen is definitive proof of Wilsdorf’s earliest commercial push into the elite North American sporting market.Stamping the interior stippled perlage of the caseback is the extraordinarily low serial number: 00617. A digit sequence this early, paired with the specific legal array of early patents, firmly dates this watch to late 1927 or early 1928ish. This places the watch squarely within the very first year of the Oyster's historic introduction to Abercrombie & Fitch Co., who at the time was the premier luxury outfitter for America’s most prominent explorers, sportsmen, and elite travelers.The "Snowite" Case and Early Wilsdorf PatentsThe caseback features the highly coveted, crisp "SNOWITE" trademark nestled inside its original diamond logo. Registered by Wilsdorf in February 1927, Snowite was a proprietary, chemically treated chrome-plated zinc and nickel alloy. It was engineered specifically to mimic the icy-blue brilliance of white gold or sterling silver while offering superior, rugged durability for a sports watch.The caseback acts as a pristine historical patent registry, preserving Wilsdorf’s hard-fought legal protections for waterproof technology:Great Britain Patents: 260554/1925 (the foundational screw-down crown) and 274.789 (the threaded caseback/bezel).Swiss Patents: +114.948 and +120.851.U.S.A. Patent: 1.661.232.The Movement & DialUnscrewing the caseback reveals a beautifully preserved FHF (Fontainemelon) base ebauche calibre, configured with 15 jewels and 3 adjustments, proudly signed Oyster Watch Co. As documented in our research, Wilsdorf deliberately chose these highly reliable FHF movements for his early Oyster Watch Co. builds to smartly navigate competitive international import tariffs while offering a premier product to his top-tier retailers.The aesthetic presence of the watch is magnificent. The original dial (note Swiss markings) has aged to a glorious, uniform warm ivory/cream hue, bordered by a crisp railway minute track and oversized, beautifully aged luminous Arabic numerals. The original skeletonized cathedral hands remain intact. Most importantly, the original text reading "ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. / OYSTER" remains perfectly clear and unrestored.For the most advanced horological collectors buying on LiveAuctioneers, Invaluable, and directly through Hess Fine Auctions, this is a museum-grade trophy. Offered with ironclad provenance directly associated with the leading scholarship on the brand, it represents an unrepeatable opportunity to own a piece of pure Rolex history.Detailed Condition ReportCase: Excellent original vintage condition. The proprietary Snowite finish remains remarkably bright with light, honest character wear appropriate for a century-old sports watch. Cushion geometry and edges remain sharp and unpolished. The screw-down crown and caseback threads track smoothly and lock securely.Dial: Pristine, untouched original condition. The dial shows a gorgeous, even patina with zero signs of modern graphical intervention. The luminous material has darkened naturally over the decades to a warm charcoal hue. Hands are original and completely intact.Movement: Exceptionally clean, running, and ticking strongly. Bridges are crisp with bright, well-preserved original lettering.We believe this to be one of the first few sold in US still bears the Perregaux and Perret patent of 1925 1661232 for a keyless watch crown mechanism for George Perret. Hans Wilsdorf famously bought the patent circa 1927/28. Further we see use of the term uses the term snowite also registered to Hanz Wilsdorf in 1927. We believe this to be a transitional watch of sorts between Perret Rolex and the Oyster Watch Co Rolexes sister brand. Mr. Hess Mr. Dowling wrote about similar watches in their book The Best of Time the seminal Rolex book that lead to so many others. Fresh to the market and no attemot to cleanoil adjsut of swap dials or cases. As found my Mr. Hess, Make it yours today. Happy bidding! Circa: 1927 Diameter: 31mm Lugtip to Lugtip: 39mm Thickness: 11mm Inside Lugs: 18mm Case Condition: Case shows some wear. Case Metal: Stainless Steel Dial Condition: Dial looks great for its age Dial Color: Champagne All Words on Dial: Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Oyster All Words on Case and Case Back: N/A Movement Running: No All Words on Movement: Movement is not running and will need the attention of a watch maker Box and Papers: None Total Watch Weight: 32g Band/Bracelet Length: 7in Band Material: Leather Shipping In-House: Available Shipping Box Size: 18 x 13 x 3 in Shipping Weight: 2 lb 0 oz General Condition: Needs a new mainspring, original onion crown still screws down. Original hands still present. Pre owned with some minor wear. Crystal has some visible scuffs seen with the naked eye no chips or cracks. Dial looks great for its age. Caseback and sides show some wear. Movement is clean. Bracelet shows some wear. See pics. Additional Information

Estimate:£3,732.04

View all items fromHess Fine AuctionsorWatches & Clocks