Dynamic Brooch With Diamond Roses in Gold & Silver, c. 1880

A variety of roses are set in the present brooch: There are forty rose cut diamonds. Stones of this cut are already found in jewellery of the 16th century. It is characterized by the fact that the top of the diamond is faceted in the shape of a star, and the bottom is cut flat. This creates a very specific, soft shimmer, which is very different from the sometimes glaring glow of today's brilliant diamonds. Even today, the diamond rose, which originated in the Netherlands, enjoys numerous enthusiasts. Our brooch presents the diamond rose as the setting of a vegetal sweep with floral applications. This design language anticipates jewellery from the era of Art Nouveau, but the brooch was created around 1880. This is shown not only by the more powerful execution, but also by a comparative piece from Martin Gerlach's famous design work Die Perle, Vol. III, from 1880 (see fig.). The brooch is very nicely preserved. Perhaps it will soon find its place on the lapel of a lady who can enjoy the gentle fire of diamonds?

Estimate:£581.01

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