Exquisite Belle Époque Ring with Diamonds in Platinum on Gold, c. 1910

One of the style-defining ornaments of Art Nouveau was the so-called "whiplash" ornament. The nickname came from a wall hanging designed by Hermann Obrist and executed by Berthe Ruchet in 1895, which shows golden embroidered cyclamen on a green-blue background. It is now in the Munich City Museum, Inv. No. T-49/63, see also our illustration. The lines of this violet were so unusually dynamic and abstracted that an enthusiastic review from the modern art magazine Pan stated: "This frenzied movement appears to us like the abrupt, violent twists of the cord when a whip cracks." (Georg Fuchs: Hermann Obrist, in: Pan, February/March 1896, pp. 319-326, here p. 323). The dynamic power of this ornament also lends this ring its characteristic appearance. Between energetic yet elegantly curved lines set with small rose-cut diamonds, it presents a row of larger old-cut diamonds. A total of around 1.44 ct of old and rose cut diamonds radiate their glistening fire. They are arranged at a slight angle to create an exciting dynamic. The diamonds are set in a contrasting bracket of synthetic rubies, which continues the calligraphic lines and emphasizes them even more visually. The rubies were created in the laboratory: Auguste Verneuil developed the technique for producing them in 1891. They were almost indistinguishable from natural stones in terms of structure and color and quickly became the dernier cri of the fashion world, as they made completely new designs possible, the implementation of which had previously been prevented by the lack of availability of gemstones of uniform quality. Here, they are cut into the predetermined shape of the line, set close together, and look like a single uninterrupted line – a novelty in jewellery design of the early 20th century. The ring is in very good condition. We were able to discover it in Munich. Judging by its hallmark, it was probably made in England or for the English market, but follows French models.

Estimate:£5,929.02

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