Exquisite Necklace with Aquamarines & Diamonds, Jan Rechner, Prague ca. 1925

Two large, clear aquamarines in a brilliant shade of ocean blue define the basic shape of this necklace. One of the two gemstones is set horizontally. It is surrounded by a double frame, on the sides of which diamond-set ornaments unfold in a fan shape. The other aquamarine is cut in a teardrop shape and suspended below. Both gemstones are set in fine platinum frames with millegrains. A delicate chain turns the pendant into a necklace. Although the ethereal design is still indebted to the Belle Époque sense of form, it is a work of the 1920s. The preciousness of the necklace demanded a timeless design, rather than an appearance too obviously dictated by current fashion. Nevertheless, the composition is unusual and original. Typical for the time is also the bold size of the pendant. Large, often teardrop-shaped pendants were elevated to the fashion Olympus in the 1920s, as were long, pendant earrings, plaque rings, and rows of diamond bracelets. Among gemstones, aquamarine advanced to become a new favorite of the fashion world. Its brilliance in electric light made it an ideal choice for high-end evening jewellery. Numerous publications of the late 19th and early 20th century refer to precisely this property: "The aquamarine and other pale varieties of the beryl are stones which lose nothing of their brilliancy at night", wrote Arthur Herbert Church in 1883, and "All beryls are very brilliant by artificial light, and therefore desirable evening stones", added Helen Bartlett Bridgman in 1915. This unusual and excellent quality necklace has survived in its original case, which identifies it as the work of the Jan Rechner company of Prague. Jan Rechner (1835-1892) was a well-known goldsmith of the 19th century, and his sons took over the firm after his death. This piece, which bears Czech fineness marks used between 1921-29, also dates from this later period. The chain made of silver bears marks showing that it was imported to Prague before 1922. It was common for goldsmiths to work with pre-existing chains. Since the case was badly worn from the outside, we had the leather cover renewed in the style of the time. The necklace comes with an independent gemmological certificate. The quotes from Arthur Herbert Church: Precious stones considered in their scientific and artistic relations. A guide to the Townshend collection, London 1883, as well as Helen Bartlett Bridgman: Gems, New York 1915.

Estimate:£26,238.89

View all items fromHofer AntikschmuckorJewellery & Gems