Fine Déco Brooch with Rock Crystal and Diamonds in Platinum, Paris, c. 1925

There are pieces of jewellery that are almost emblematic of the era in which they were created. This brooch is one such piece: in its colour palette, materials, design, and ornamentation, it is a prime example of 1920s jewellery. It was created in Paris, the centre of the international Art Deco movement, where the 1925 exhibition Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes gave this style its name. The rectangular brooch was an indispensable accessory of that era. The focal point here is not a colored gemstone or a motif cut from platinum, but rather a carved rock crystal with a satin-finished surface. Set in a diamond-encrusted frame, it is reminiscent of Chinese jade carvings, whose preciousness and artistic value were underscored not least by the fact that they were preserved in elaborate wooden frames. Beginning in the 1920s, Chinese influences had replaced the Japonism trend to breathe new life into Western jewellery; they are also evident in the enameled and diamond-set lines of the brooch. The monochromatic color scheme is also quite characteristic. Black enamel, white diamonds, platinum, and colourless rock crystal: here, the association of the non-colour black with mourning is a thing of the past. The jewellery is detached from any sentimentality and embraces the striking, modern contrast of black and white as an aesthetic device. At the same time, we are reminded of the films that were cutting-edge at the time, which flitted across movie screens in the same monochromatic palette. After it was created, the brooch was imported to Austria in later years. From there, it found its way to us. Where will its journey take it next?

Estimate:£2,423.35

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