Large Expressionist Pendant with Amethyst and Colored Diamonds in Gold, 1920s

The mid-1920s gave rise to a particularly expressive design language within Art Deco that is closely linked to Expressionism in art. Geometry and abstracted nature merge into a new ornamental style: leaves become slender lancets, tendrils rise in rhythmic arcs, and floral motifs no longer appear naturalistic but rather as elegant symbols of modernity. We encounter these same forms in the architecture of Berlin’s Renaissance Theater or Leipzig’s Grassi Museum, as well as in the fashion, graphic design, and interior design of those years—symbols of an era of automobiles, skyscrapers, and electricity. This pendant perfectly exemplifies this expressive aesthetic. Its elongated teardrop shape unfolds like a trellis for a stylized plant composed of blossoms, leaves, and intertwined tendrils, whose movement inevitably draws the eye to the center. Set there is an exceptionally intense, natural amethyst weighing more than 26 carats. Its deep purple-violet hue forms the focal point of the composition. Twelve old-cut diamonds totaling c. 2.40 carats add sparkling accents to the openwork setting. Their natural brown tones harmonize particularly beautifully with the high-karat gold, lending the pendant a soft, almost velvety radiance. A delicate chain from the same period has been preserved with the pendant. The unusual pendant reflects the avant-garde spirit of the times. Not only its design but also its hallmarks suggest that it was made in Germany. Many designs in this style can be found, for example, in Christianne Weber’s book: Jewellery of the 1920s and 1930s in Germany, Stuttgart 1990.

Estimate:£2,911.81

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