Magnificent Coral Necklace with a Gold Clasp, c. 1985

For thousands of years, red coral has been one of the world’s most precious materials for jewelry. Unlike gemstones, it does not form deep within the Earth, but grows slowly in the sea as a sturdy framework of tiny polyps. It is precisely this origin that has made it a mysterious material since ancient times. The Greeks associated its origin with the blood of Medusa, which dripped into the sea after her decapitation by Perseus and transformed there into red coral. For many centuries, coral was therefore regarded not only as precious but also as a protective good-luck charm. This extraordinary necklace demonstrates just how impressively coral was used in late 20th-century jewelry design. Ten graduated strands of faceted barrel-cut coral come together to form a powerful necklace with an impressive presence. Weighing over half a kilogram, the piece of jewellery has an almost sculptural effect yet nestles surprisingly softly around the neck. The faceted surfaces gently reflect the light and lend the coral an unusual vibrancy that further accentuates its warm, intense colour. The handcrafted clasp also deserves special attention. Here, two large pieces of coral are set in high-karat gold. The smooth, curved surfaces of the square “sugar loaf cut” perfectly showcase the coral’s intense colour and create an almost architectural accent. The simple setting deliberately avoids any distractions, allowing the exceptional quality of the corals to take center stage. The necklace’s beauty stems solely from the power of a material that nature has allowed to grow in the sea over centuries. It is a piece of jewellery with extraordinary presence that came to us from an impressive collection in Stuttgart.

Estimate:£33,110.78

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