Rare Antique Brooch of an Early Female Motorist, Set with Diamonds, c. 1905

At the turn of the century, a new technological achievement took the streets of Europe by storm: the automobile. The first vehicles were not only an expensive indulgence but, more than almost anything else, symbolized progress, speed, and a new kind of freedom. Women, too, discovered the automobile for themselves early on. A distinct fashion style emerged that took into account the unique conditions of open-top cars. This bar brooch from around 1905 depicts an early female automobilist. In the center, we see the three-dimensional head of a young woman crafted from high-karat yellow gold. She wears a fashionable hat, over which a scarf is draped and tied tightly under her chin. These so-called “automobile veils” secured the hat against the wind and at the same time protected against dust and dirt. For comparison, we present a photograph of the Duchess of Sutherland and her daughter in an automobile from around 1903, showing a similar method of securing their fashionable headwear. Two old-cut diamonds form our lady’s eyeglasses and lend her small face a distinctive expression. The head rests on a slender stem set with sixteen sparkling diamond roses. Their settings are crafted from light-colored platinum and stand out strikingly against the warm gold of the head. The piece of jewellery belongs to the category of so-called novelty jewellery, which, since the late 19th century, has reflected the interests and passions of its wearers through small, often humorous motifs. Closely related to this was Sporting Jewelry, featuring depictions of horses, hunting, tennis, golf, or the then-nascent sports of cycling and motor racing. The latter, in particular, began appearing in brooches and pins in the 1890s and also came to symbolize women’s newly gained mobility. Our female motorist takes up this idea and thus stands as a symbol of the trailblazers of modernity in the early 20th century.

Estimate:£1,430.36

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