Timeless Cluster Ring with a Colombian Emerald and Diamonds, c. 1950

In the mid-20th century, the traditional entourage ring—designed to showcase select gemstones—experienced a resurgence. Its design, which had originally evolved from courtly jewellery, was now often focused on highlighting the beauty of just a few, particularly exquisite stones. Among the classic combinations, both then and now, are emerald and diamond: the deep green of one and the white fire of the other enhance each other’s effect. At the center of this ring is a natural emerald weighing approximately 1.35 carats. The faceted octagonal cut frames its vibrant colour within a calm, geometric shape. At the same time, the stone impresses with its unusually high clarity, revealing only a few internal inclusions. Its gemmological characteristics point to the famous deposits of Colombia, and another distinctive feature is that the stone has undergone only minimal clarity enhancement. Twelve brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.85 carats surround the green center stone. Their settings are made of platinum, which recedes visually behind the diamonds and creates the impression of an almost unbroken halo of light. The 18-karat yellow gold ring band provides a warm contrast to this while also echoing the golden undertone of the vibrant emerald green. A Viennese import hallmark, as used between 1923 and 1965, documents the ring’s journey through the Austrian trade. We also discovered the ring in Vienna. With its balanced combination of colour, sparkle, and classic form, it is a quintessential piece of jewellery from the mid-century period—stately without appearing heavy, and possessing an effortless elegance.

Estimate:£7,769.65

View all items fromHofer AntikschmuckorJewellery & Gems