Vintage White Gold Ring with an Antique 1.49 ct Diamond Solitaire, c. 1960

In antiquity, diamonds were primarily valued for their unparalleled hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was at best a secondary concern. In fact, early diamonds do not appear attractive to the modern eye at all. Medieval cutting techniques did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only highlighted the brightness and colour of the stones. All this changed over the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque era developed a preference for sparkling gemstones. Diamonds cut in the rose style were particularly popular, as their multiple facets reflected candlelight beautifully. By the middle of the century, an early form of the brilliant cut had emerged, named the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin. It was characterised by a crown with 17 facets. Towards the end of the century, additional facets were added to the crown, increasing the total to 33 and significantly enhancing the fire of the stones. New diamond deposits in Brazil led, in the second half of the 18th century, to the development of a cut known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds already closely resemble our modern full-cut brilliants, but several generations of continuous improvements in cutting techniques were still required before the Old Mine Cut evolved into the Old European Cut, and finally, in the 1940s, into the modern full cut. The solitaire ring presented here holds precisely such an Old Mine Cut diamond from the mid-19th century, set in a delicate coronet-style setting. The ring, crafted from high-carat white gold, was made in the 1960s, making it more than 100 years younger than the antique diamond with its distinctive cut. And yet, the two complement each other beautifully: thanks to the airy design of the setting, the diamond can fully unleash its fire. The diamond weighs nearly one and a half carats. The quality of the gemstone has been assessed by the Berlin diamond laboratory Dr Malzahn as faintly tinted white (Top Crystal, I) with small individual inclusions (SI). On either side of the solitaire, two smaller diamonds adorn the ring’s shoulders. These, too, are historical stones, cut in the so-called Peruzzi cut and dating back to the 18th century. Our goldsmith will be happy to adjust the beautiful ring to the required size so that it can once again be worn with joy and delight.

Estimate:£5,079.59

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