On 18 September, Elstob & Elstob will be hosting their ‘Jewellery, Watches & Silver’ auction, with over 700 lots to suit a wide range of interests and budgets. Novelty items such as Edwardian money boxes and dressing table sets will be on offer, as well as nearly 300 pieces of jewellery ranging from ancient Egyptian beads to elegant Modernist designs. Some of the most enticing jewellery items in the catalogue are Scandinavian and Modernist silver designs, which are easy to wear and endlessly versatile.
Many Scandinavian designers draw inspiration from their native landscape, and the prevalent use of silver reflects the ice and snow typical in the region. Karl Laine is one such designer, who looked to the tranquil nature of Finland when creating his masterpieces. Beads of dew on cobwebs or ice-encased rocks are common motifs found in his work, particularly in pieces produced for the Finnfeelings line in the 1970s. His orbital pendant and ring pictured above exemplify the former imagery, with dollops of silver nestled within a delicate frame.
Matti Hyvärinen, another Finnish designer, set up his company Sirokoru in 1958 at the age of 21 and is known for his strong, bold designs. Over a 60-year career, Hyvärinen has won many prestigious awards, including Goldsmith of the Year in 1987, and he is the only Finnish designer to win the Diamonds International Awards competition. Gemstones are rarely used in Scandinavian jewellery, but when they are they’re selected for their colour and beauty rather than their intrinsic worth. Here the deep amethyst is cut en cabochon to contrast with the twisted, grooved face of the ring that is reminiscent of a landscape of mountains and fjords.
Scandinavian designers often incorporate motifs from their Viking heritage, as in this pendant designed by Bjørn Sigurd Østern. The articulated links take the form of Mjölnir, Thor's hammer, which he wielded both as a weapon and a divine instrument to provide blessings. The piece was designed for David Andersen, a jewellery company based in Oslo, and is marked ‘DA’ on the reverse.
Another notable piece of Scandinavian silver is a ring by Georg Jensen, which features a round piece of coral within a wavy shank. The three overlapping parts of the band add unexpected texture without sacrificing simplicity, and create a pleasingly asymmetrical look. Founded in 1904, the eponymous Danish company Georg Jensen specialises in silver ware and is still renowned for their timeless, elegant designs.
The sale will also include a fine selection of watches, such as this ladies Oyster Perpetual bracelet watch by Rolex. The brand is famous for their craftsmanship, and they have amassed a loyal following of connoisseurs and casual collectors alike. The 26mm case contains a circular white dial, silver hands, baton index and a date aperture with cyclops magnifier in the 3 o’clock position. A steel Jubilee bracelet forms the band, complete with a folding centre clasp.
A gentleman’s Rolex will appear as well, specifically a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer. First launched in 1953, the model features a highly legible black dial and luminescent hands and markers that make it easy to tell the time under any circumstances. The Explorer belongs to the ‘professional’ category of watches, and it even graced the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary when he summited Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay. The watch coming under the hammer on the 18th is officially certified, and fitted with a steel Oyster bracelet.
Decorative silver items also have their place in the auction, such as this charming Edwardian money box. The novelty money box is shaped in the form of a dress shoe complete with fabric laces, and the slotted lid is hinged for convenient access to the contents. It was made by S Blanckensee & Son Ltd. in 1909, a highly successful silversmith based out of Bristol.
For fans of the Arts and Crafts movement, the ‘Puritan Maid’ dressing table set is bound to be a delight. The set was designed by the silversmith Kate Harris for William Hutton & Sons in London, and includes a hand mirror, hairbrush and comb. Each piece is engraved with the profile of a woman in a modest bonnet, referencing the backlash against modernity inherent in the Arts and Crafts movement. On either side of the portrait there is a long, undulating flower, a motif that’s typical of Art Nouveau style.
The ‘Jewellery, Watches & Silver’ auction will take place on 18 September, with viewing available from 16-18 September and in-person bidding available on the day of sale.