Elena Jackson is a celebrated vintage fashion historian, writer, and costume designer with nearly forty years of experience in the vintage clothing industry, specialising in the 1920s -1980s eras. She is the owner of one of the UK’s best-loved vintage shops that supplies film and theatre costumes and museums worldwide. She has been featured in many notable fashion publications and has sourced pieces for famous exhibitions including the Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior, and Mary Quant exhibitions at the Victoria & Albert in London.
Elena is also the vintage fashion specialist at Ewbank’s, Surrey’s leading auction house. We chat with her ahead of the Vintage Fashion & Textiles Auction, where 85 incredible pieces from the best eras of fashion design will be offered to the public, on 28 July 2022.
Barnebys: What inspired you to specialise in vintage fashion?
Elena Jackson: It was my mother who inspired me down this path: she was Miss Wales in the 1950s and went on to be a fashion model. She was always immaculately dressed and I have vivid memories of her psychedelic dresses and wigs in the 1970s – she looked like Elizabeth Taylor!
As an auction specialist, what is your approach when curating a vintage fashion sale?
My approach to curating vintage fashion sales is akin to the famous quote about buying a house … ‘location, location, location!’ For me, it is ‘quality, quality, quality!’
What pieces of vintage clothing make for good investments?
For long-term investing, I always recommend high-end classic items from houses such as Hermes and Chanel. Accessories fit everyone and therefore appeal to a larger audience. It’s also always wise to check authenticity.
Which fashion houses today have in your opinion kept their designs close to their historic roots?
Unfortunately, so many of them have disappeared or have changed in order to keep up with competitors who produce cheaper alternatives. But personally, I favour Italian designers such as Gucci, Moschino and Dolce and Gabbana. Again, it always comes down to quality.
What accessories are always good to buy vintage?
This depends on whether you are looking for an investment or something that you enjoy wearing. As an investment, I would recommend designer bags and scarves, but if you want to purchase something to enjoy, I think chunky 1980s jewellery is wonderfully fun! Butler and Wilson are my favourites, and they will be offered in the auction.
Are there any designers that strike that balance between art and clothing?
The one designer that I think truly produces works of art has to be Alexander McQueen. I was involved in the exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and I think he was a genius. His use of colour is joyful!
European designers are often the most well-known, but are there any historic British fashion houses that you particularly admire?
My favourite British designer is, without a doubt, Mary Quant. She was way ahead of her time – colourful, creative and also a little bit daring (note the miniskirt). She later branched out into shoes, lingerie, make-up, soft furnishings and even Daisy dolls.
What are some of your favourite pieces in the upcoming sale?
Some of my favourite pieces are an astonishing vintage 1980s Christian Dior lamb’s leather and python-skin skirt suit, and a classic quilted 1980s white Chanel handbag. Another highlight is a fabulous grape-coloured Ossie Clark dress from the early 1970s.
What are the notable style icons that define each period presented in the auction?
One of them is Gianni Versace – it was the 25th anniversary of his death a few days ago and I think it is important to note his genius in fashion design. Also from the Quorum/Radley British fashion house, the Ossie Clarke, Alice Pollock and Sheridan Barnett pieces are of particular note.
Finally, if you could only buy vintage pieces from one period of history, which would it be?
It would have to be 1940s CC41 utility wear. I am fascinated by the quality of the products and the imagination used to create these items with limited resources available. They also make a very good investment purchase as they are becoming rarer and rarer.
For the best pieces of vintage fashion, make sure to check out Ewbank’s upcoming Vintage Fashion & Textiles Auction, live on 28 July 2022.
