Styles have evolved over the decades and trends change almost every year, but some brands remain evergreen, and auctions have proven a useful tool for getting one's hands on the most coveted designer items out there. And for those whose preferences are always developing, buying fashion at auction offers an environmentally-friendly alternative to buying at retail, and often at a much more affordable entry point.
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As the popularity of fashion in the auction market grows stronger, we sit down with Chiara Maggioni, Designer Handbag Valuer at Lots Road Auctions, the Chelsea-based auction house established in 1979 known “for all things authentic, alternative, eclectic and magnificent." Chiara talks to us about her journey to becoming a specialist, her recommendations for investment pieces and her favourite picks from Lots Road Auction's upcoming sale of Designer Handbags and Fashion, live now until the 3rd of December.
Barnebys: How did you become a specialist and valuer in designer pieces?
Chiara Maggioni: I’ve always loved design and the craftsmanship behind some brands, so many years ago I started researching the sector… Back then it was not a very popular topic and it was hard to find much information around.
In your opinion, which brands have always stood the test of time?
Some brands are evergreens: Chanel and Hermès, for example, have been always very desirable and are a pretty safe bet, even as investments. When it comes to design, some trends have changed over time: years ago larger bags were popular, while now smaller bags are more in vogue.
The sale features several designs from some of the most popular brands, including this Hermès Unicorn silk tie, made in France. First introduced in 1949, the five-fold silk staple has since become a signature item for the brand, making it a favourite collector's item. Silk ties are produced at the atelier in Lyon, where Hermès weave their own silk. The maison is certainly one of the most loved fashion brands worldwide. From the same brand, the sale will also feature a vintage Hermès Kelly 35 noir shiny crocodile bag, circa 1964.
Another classic from an equally known brand is this Chanel vintage Chevron handbag, circa 1991/94, in satin with encrusted diamond style stones on the iconic CC logo, gold-tone hardware chain shoulder strap, and gold leather lining. The Chanel Maison is represented in the sale again with a pair of Ballerina Shoes Flats, made in Italy, in a neutral colour with black-toe design with dust bags. Since its debut in 1984, the Chanel elegant pump has become synonymous with French chic. Karl Lagerfeld conceived the design a year after his appointment as head of the house. The soft beige pumps with black toe caps were designed as an extension of Gabrielle Coco Chanel's signature two-tone sling-backs, first launched in 1957. Ballerina flats are appreciated by all generations and have had a noticeable revival in the past year, with Gen-zers having termed the trend 'ballet-core'.
Representing French elegance in the sale are also many pieces from Louis Vuitton, including handbags, trunks, and suitcases. A particular highlight is the Louis Vuitton Pegase 65, monogram canvas luggage with one exterior pocket, top handle, brass hardware and leather trim and two inside zippered pockets, 65cm H x 25cm x 43cm. The LV monogram suitcases speak for themselves: with a bicentenary history behind them, the Vuitton designs have most definitely made collectable status.
Classic designs are accompanied in the sale by more contemporary items, such as the Valentino Rockstud bag, in royal blue leather with dusty pink leather interior, light gold-tone hardware, adjustable strap, and authenticity card, 21cm x 13cm H x 5cm. Also featured is a selection of Prada handbags and other notable brands such as Fendi, Mulberry, Miu Miu, Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent.
Accessories from Moschino, Max Mara, Diane von Fürstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, Christian Dior, and Cartier – to name a few – are also present in the sale. From the accessories offer, we highlight these Celine vintage clip-on earrings, in the iconic 1990s globe design, surrounded by the Celine logo, made in Italy.
Finally, we asked Chiara, if she could keep one item from this auction for herself, what would she pick?
I would keep lot 14, the Balenciaga City bag: it’s practical and the colour reminds me of the sky on a beautiful summer day!
The timed auction of designer handbags and accessories will be live from Saturday 12 November and end on Saturday 3rd December.
