In this interview, we delve into the enchanting world of sapphires with Julia Westerman, Jewellery Specialist at Elmwood's, ahead of their Important Jewels auction on Thursday 6 July. Julia explains to us the quality, value, and current trends within the world of sapphires and talks us through a remarkable collection of seven unheated Kashmir sapphires that will be offered in the catalogue.
What are the key factors to consider when assessing the quality and value of a sapphire?
There are several key features – most importantly the colour, origin and treatment. The most important factor above all else is the sapphire’s origin. Sapphires are found in mines around the world, most notably in Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and Myanmar. One of the most important and historic locations are mines found within the Kashmir region, all of which were depleted nearly 100 years ago. Sapphires from different localities present different patterns of inclusions which cause their characteristic appearance.
The most recognisable of these patterns are found within Kashmir stones, which often have a silky blue appearance. Second to the origin, treatment is a vital factor when assessing the quality and value of a sapphire. Most sapphires on the commercial market have been subjected to some form of heat treatment to improve their colour and clarity. An unheated sapphire has not been treated in any way: it is a completely natural stone, reflecting the beauty of the ground from which it was mined. Of all sapphires, unheated Kashmir sapphires are the rarest and most highly prized.
What are the current trends in the world of sapphires? Are there any styles or designs that are gaining popularity?
There is an increasing desire for beautiful sapphires, no matter where they are from, but sapphires from the traditional mines and localities will always be the most popular. There has also been a rising interest in different coloured sapphires, such as blue, pink, and green sapphires, which haven’t always been as popular in the past. Blue sapphires will always be the most classic and instantly recognisable colour of this gem, and will continue to remain timeless. As heated sapphires have increased and become industry standard, there is a growing desire in the market for unheated ones, which are becoming increasingly rare. Natural, unheated sapphires showcase the colours and features that nature has provided, which leads to their popularity.
What characteristics make Kashmir sapphires unique and distinguish them from the rest?
Sapphires mined in Kashmir, an area in the Himalayan mountains, are the rarest and most valuable in the world. Sapphires were discovered in Kashmir in 1881 and the mines were quickly depleted in the following years. Today, the majority of the Kashmir sapphires that appear on the market were mined in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century.
In addition to their natural scarcity, Kashmir sapphires have a unique pattern of inclusions which give the stones a silky appearance. Stones from this locality have a velvety, vivid blue hue, often described as ‘cornflower’. Their incomparable natural beauty combined with their scarcity sets them above any other sapphires.
Can you give us some insights into the provenance of this collection?
These sapphires are from an important collection of fine jewels from an international collector. The collector in this case spent many years acquiring the finest examples of gemstones such as emeralds and sapphires as well as pursuing jewels crafted with bold, distinctive design.
Talk us through this collection of sapphires: what are some of the top pieces on offer?
Elmwood’s are delighted to offer a collection of seven unheated Kashmir sapphires for auction, ranging in size from 2.80 to 7.75 carats. This collection of gemstones includes a variety of different cuts and sizes, but each stone is perfectly representative of the rarity and allure of sapphires of this type. The largest sapphire in the collection is a magnificent octagonal step cut stone with a rich colour and a lively appearance. As they are the scarcest in the world, Kashmir sapphires present an exceptional investment opportunity.
By offering each sapphire separately at No Reserve, Elmwood’s are pleased to offer the unique chance to acquire one or all of these legendary treasures, and to take home a piece of history.
