Nature has always been a big inspiration for jewellers, including both flora and fauna. In the Art Nouveau era, they favoured delicate butterflies and dragonflies, and snakes have been a recurring theme in jewellery since ancient times. However, a turning point came in 1948 when the Duchess of Windsor received a leopard brooch as a gift from Cartier. This sparked a trend, with more matching pieces in the following years, influencing stars and fashion icons for the next two decades.
See also: How Cartier Got Its Spots
The animal-shaped clips introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels at its Parisian boutique on Place Vendôme in 1954 were not as glamorous but had a distinct enchantment. Crafted from yellow gold and precious stones, these clips were part of a campaign for more affordable jewellery, yet they found favour among the fashion-conscious women of Hollywood and high society. Notable collectors included Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly. Grace Kelly, upon her marriage to Prince Rainier III in 1956, received a set of pearl and diamond jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels as a wedding gift. As a result, the jeweller was later designated the official supplier to the court of the Principality of Monaco.
Grace Kelly received another notably precious wedding gift — a poodle — from actor Cary Grant, presented to his colleague and future princess. In 1958, an additional poodle joined the collection, this time crafted from platinum and diamonds and worn as a lapel accessory. Interestingly, this charming piece of jewellery was created by Cartier, as was another brooch resembling a chicken with a pearl adorning its body. Among Princess Grace's favourites from Van Cleef & Arpels was a yellow gold chick clip embellished with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds.
See also: How Van Cleef & Arpels Got Its Four-Leaf Clover
In the 1960s, particularly in Milan, Pierino Frascarolo gained recognition for his 'animal' jewellery. Having established his company in the late 1940s, Frascarolo became a prominent figure in the jewellery industry, specialising in fauna-inspired creations. His repertoire ranged from owls and dogs to leopards and zebras. Frascarolo crafted vibrant pieces and sets using gold, precious stones, and enamel, later expanding sales to another store in New York. Unfortunately, the company ceased operations in 1976 following the untimely death of Pierino Frascarolo at the age of 48.
Around the same era as Pierino in Milan, the American jeweller David Webb established his shop in New York and rose to prominence as one of the country's premier jewellery artists. Webb, too, recognised the prevailing trend and began crafting animal-shaped jewellery from 1957. The inaugural piece was a bangle, marking the commencement of Webb's animal kingdom. This collection encompassed frogs, monkeys, snakes, as well as zebras (the company's mascots) and various big cats. The bracelets, adorned with one or two heads of the respective species, remain captivating to this day — although they are occasionally mistaken for Frascarolo's creations.
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Elizabeth Taylor, a fervent enthusiast of both animals and jewellery, owned more than just one David Webb bracelet, with a particular fondness for the lion and lioness designs. Among her notable pieces was a splendid David Webb bracelet crafted from yellow gold, platinum, and coral, adorned with emeralds and diamonds. This exquisite bracelet fetched $218,500 (£174,000) when it went under the hammer as part of the iconic actress's jewellery collection auction in 2011.
