The Surprising Inspiration Behind the Cartier Love Bracelet

Since the late 1960s, the Cartier Love Bracelet has been an iconic piece of jewellery that represents infinite love. The bracelet has been popular among stars from Elizabeth Taylor and Steve McQueen to Kylie Jenner, but also with Barnebys users. Here is the story behind Cartier's iconic bracelet.

The creator behind the Cartier Love Bracelet bracelet was the Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo (1936-1984). Even as a young man, Cipullo was surrounded by design because his father worked on creating costumes and jewellery in his hometown of Naples.

When Cipullo was in his twenties, he immigrated to the United States to realise his own dreams of designing jewellery. After a few years of studying at the School of Visual Arts in New York City, he began working at Tiffany & Co. and then David Webb. In 1969, the same year he started working at Cartier, Cipullo had his big breakthrough when he designed the Cartier Love Bracelet. 

See also: The 9 Most Popular Jewellery Brands

For the bracelet, Cipullo drew inspiration from the Middle Ages and the chastity belt. He made a modern interpretation of the object and since the chastity belt was the medieval symbol of purity and loyalty, Cipullo created the bracelet to show a couple's fidelity in a contemporary way.

A hallmark of the bracelet is the special locking mechanism that makes it impossible to remove. Unlike other bracelets, which can be taken on and off easily, the lock has been made in a way that requires a screwdriver to open it. The screwdriver is meant to be held by one's partner who is the only one who can open up the bracelet, as if they are only one to hold the key to their heart.

The Love Bracelet quickly became popular to wear because it showed that the wearer was 'locked in love'. Cipullo once said, “What modern people want are love symbols that are locked semi-permanently or that are at least difficult to remove. After all, love symbols should show infinity.”

See also: Top 6: The Art of the Kiss

The bracelet also revolutionised the way people wore their jewellery. At the time the Love Bracelet was launched, it was common to choose jewellery based on the clothes one wore. Now, because of the elegant simplicity of the design, a piece of exclusive jewellery could be paired with any outfit.

Upon the launch of the collection, Cartier sent the bracelet to 25 famous couples, such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Nancy and Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Dyan Cannon, and Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen. When the public saw these stars carry the bracelet, demand increased, but Cartier had a policy that the Love Bracelet could only be purchased as a gift.

The original version of the Love Bracelet was made in gilded silver, but over the years it was made in other materials, such as yellow, white and pink gold, and with diamonds. Since 1969, the Love collection has expanded and now, in addition to the bracelet, there are earrings, rings, charms and cufflinks. The design has undoubtedly become one of Cartier's hallmarks and a popular collector's item. 

See also: Cartier, a Jewellery to Love

When Love Bracelet was launched in 1969, it cost about $250, which is just over $1,700 (£1,300) in today's value. Today it can be found at auction for anywhere between $300 to $50,000 (£330 to £38,500).

The downside to the bracelet's popularity is that it has led to several counterfeit designs. For a time, Cartier had to label every bracelet that was then stored at Cartier headquarters to prove the authenticity of the jewellery. 

Want jewellery articles straight to your inbox? Sign up to our free newsletter

The Love Bracelet was Aldo Cipullo's first design and his big breakthrough. Over the years, he continued to surprise with his innovation and creativity, including the Juste un Clou collection, which includes the iconic bracelet that encircles the wrist in the form of a large nail. 

It is said that hospitals in New York had to have the special screwdriver in place to be able to remove the Love Bracelet on patients. The bracelet has also become notorious at airports and is called "the most problematic object" as it is difficult to remove the bracelet at security checks. 

Find more articles about jewellery on Barnebys Magazine